cherry jam

© Nick Loven

It's a sad fact that cherry trees in the UK are in decline, we've lost 90% of our cherry orchards in the last 50 years and now import 95% of the cherries we eat. I've had a good look around where I live, and sadly, most of the cherry trees are ornamental, yielding little or no fruit, and the fruit it brings is incredibly sour. Luckily, near where Nick's parents live there are a few very good places for cherry foraging, so this weekend we went a-raiding and came away with about 3kg of delicious, delicious cherries. We've saved about 30 seeds and plan to plant them up, then out, when it looks like they can fend for themselves. 

© Keith Loven
With so many cherries we had meant to make jam, freeze some for cherry liquor, and some for tarts and pies. We got a bit carried away though and saved very few for liquor, and started making jam with the rest before we remembered the tart and pie plan. Oh well, guess we'll just have to go back and collect some more...

I've calculated the ingredients on a "per kilo of fruit" basis. Should work with any soft fruits.


© Lydia, punge.blogspot.com
Cherry Jam, makes ~1.3 litres, 2.3 pints
Ingredients
1kg (2.2lbs) cherries, de-stoned weight
770g sugar
1 sachet (13g) pectin
115ml (1/2 cup) water
35ml (2tbsp and 1tsp) lemon juice

Method
Place a small plate in the freezer, this will be used later to test whether the jam has reached setting point.
To sterilise your jars, immerse them in boiling water before drying in the oven on a low heat (~130°C, gas mark 1-2, 260°F) for approximately 10 minutes. Sterilise the (metal) ladle, funnel and/or perspex measuring jug you will use for pouring the jam into the jars in the same way. 

Bring the fruit, water and lemon juice to the boil in a large saucepan and simmer, covered, for about 20 minutes until the fruit is tender.
Reduce the heat and add the sugar and pectin, stirring until dissolved.
Increase the heat and bring the mixture to a rolling (rapid) boil. Boil for 20-30 minutes.
To test readiness, spoon a teaspoon of the jam onto the chilled place and place in the fridge for 1 minute. 
Remove plate from fridge and push your finger through the jam. If the jam in front of your finger wrinkles and generally feels jammy, it's ready, otherwise give it another 5 minutes boiling time and test again, repeating until setting point is reached. Remove the froth/scum on the surface with a spoon - this will result in a clear jam with a much nicer texture.

Pour into your sterilised jars, et voila! Jam!

cherry liquorice cupcakes

© Lydia, punge.blogspot.co.uk

Apparently it was national cherry day 3 days ago (16th July), something that was drawn to my attention by the botanical baker blog. As it happens, we had foraged some cherries that were sitting happily in the freezer only a few days before that. I love cherries, and I'm really looking forward to more foraging this weekend in a spot in Lincolnshire we know to be fantastic, and the jam-making that follows.

I don't know where the idea came from but I was convinced that cherries and liquorice should go well together. This proved to be yet another combination that, when suggesting it to Nick, was met with a pause, a confused-disgusted look, and a quiet escape of "um...". But I have faith. Scouring the internet for liquorice/cherry cake recipes I wasn't that surprised that I couldn't find the combination already there. Nor was I surprised that liquorice cupcakes do, most commonly, contain liquorice. But I don't have liquorice at home and it's rare that I want to go shopping, especially as my car's MOT has expired and isn't booked in for its test 'till Tuesday, which it'll probably fail so miserably that it'll be sayonara to Mike II. But I digress.

© Lydia, punge.blogspot.co.uk
Apple & Spice mentioned that liquorice cake using melted/disolved liquorice has a treacle flavour to it, so I figured that using treacle should imbibe a liquorice taste too. Sweetapolita.com described an aniseed extract frosting that didn't repel the liquorice-haters but was satisfying liquorice-y for it's admirers. 

Sweetapolita also nicely links liquorice with almonds, which everyone knows goes well with cherries. I felt a mix of treacle and star anise (I know star anise isn't the same thing as aniseed, but both have a liquorice taste) would be the best way to go to avoid the treacle making the cake too dense and sticky but give it enough moisture.

I couldn't decide between a liquorice cake with cherry frosting, or a cherry cake with cherry jam filling and a star anise frosting. I actually started preparing the star anise-infused milk for the frosting before changing my mind and using it for the sponge instead. So here it is, my non-liquorice liquorice cake with cherry frosting. The recipe is for 6 cupcakes, as I have a tendency when trying out recipes to decrease the batter to the minimum possible (i.e. 1 egg's-worth), so multiply up for your "needs"! If you want to make an 8" cake instead of cupcakes then triple the quantities given below (both for the batter and frosting), baking for the same amount of time as cupcakes in two sandwich tins.

This cake is light and airy yet moist, and while some people can't taste the anise at all (freaky taste-buds, Andy!), for others it's quite pleasantly noticeable. Either way, everyone who's tried it has loved it, including two non liquorice-lovers! Enjoy!


Lydia's cherry liquorice cupcakes 

       (suitable for liquorice-haters!) makes 6
© Lydia, punge.blogspot.co.uk
Ingredients
Cake Batter
60g (2oz) margarine or butter
60g (2oz, 1/4 cup) caster sugar
1tbsp treacle (blackstrap molasses)
1 large egg
1 tsp almond extract
115g (3/4 cup) self-raising flour
60ml (1/4 cup) milk (or 40ml = 2tbsp+2tsp milk if you have an electric grinder for the star anise)
1 star anise, ground (~1.5tsp ground), if you don't have a grinder, use 2-3 star anise

Cherry Frosting
90g (1 stick) butter, at room temperature
180g icing (1 cup confectioner's) sugar
1/2 tsp almond extract
1tbsp kirsch/cherry liquor (cherry juice/flavouring/extract should also work)
40g fresh/tinned cherries (stoneless weight, approx 20 small cherries), chopped

With a swirly frosting as pictured, you should still have some frosting left at the end, so you can get away with decreasing the quantities slightly. If you're doing a thinner coating of frosting (i.e. spreading it on) you can get away with making just half of the frosting quantity.


Method
If you have an electric grinder, grind your star anise to a fine powder and set aside and ignore the simmering milk stage. Otherwise, simmer the star anise in the milk for 10 minutes and allow to steep, cooling, for at least 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 160°C (electric/fan, 180°C gas - mark 4, 320-350°F).
Line a cupcake tin with cupcake cases / line 2 8inch sandwich tins with greaseproof paper or grease with butter and coat with flour (if you have springform tins)

Beat the butter and the sugar until light and fluffy. Add the egg and beat to incorporate.
Fold in the flour (with the ground star anise if you had a grinder), then the treacle, almond extract and 40ml (2tbsp and 2tsp) of the milk (remove whole star anise if used, you can strain out the ground star anise if you wish, but it's not necessary).
Divide among the cases and bake for 20-25 minutes, until a toothpick comes out clean and the centre of the cake(s) are firm and springy to the touch. 
Allow to cool fully before frosting - for the cake, cool in the tin for 5-10 minutes before transferring, upside-down, on a wire rack. 

To make the frosting, beat the butter and the sugar until light and fluffy.
Add all the liquid (if your cherries have seeped liquid, then add this too but subtract the amount from the amount of kirsch you add so that the total volume of liquid added does not exceed 1tbsp and 1/2 tsp, otherwise the frosting will be too runny, and is very likely to curdle) and the chopped cherries before beating again until incorporated. Be careful not to overbeat the frosting as it will become runny.

Yum!
© Lydia, punge.blogspot.co.uk


cold-brew coffee cake

© Nick Loven

With a small tub's worth of last week's frosting surviving the week's biscuit needs, salted caramel buttercream was always going to be the frosting of choice for this week's adventure. And having come across the idea of cold-brew coffee a few months ago, I've been meaning to try a batch for a long time. Cold-brew coffee is brewed over 12-24 hours at room temperature before use, and because no hot water comes into contact with the coffee grounds, the acids aren't leached into the liquid, resulting in a much smoother taste, and fewer gastric side effects. For those interested in the caffeine content, cold-brew coffee also contains less caffeine than hot-brewed coffee gram for gram. The main reason for cold-brewing coffee over hot-brewing and then cooling is that coffee that's gone cold tastes rank, owing to the bitter acidic compounds that are extracted with hot water. So for a decent iced coffee, this is the way. I'm not sure it matters as much if you're using it in a cake, especially as the subtler flavours in coffee that you get to taste with the cold-brew method, were you to drink it instead of bake it, are masked by the other cake ingredients. I've certainly used hot-coffee-gone-cold in cakes before and not had any problems with it, but hey, I was making some anyway.

The first attempt at this cake ended up with a very subtle coffee flavour, especially delicious straight from the fridge with slightly hardened frosting. Personally I wanted something more unmistakably coffee-ee, which the  second batch was, though it mellowed over the next day. The recipe is for the full strength cake, but if you prefer a weaker version, decrease the amount of coffee used throughout the recipe by half. This cake has a couple more stages in it's making than other cakes - the cake is drizzled in a coffee/sugar syrup mixture which needs to be made beforehand and cooled, and the salted caramel frosting requires the caramel to be made and cooled beforehand too. It's worth it though. 

Best a day after baking and frosting, and I imagine it would only get better over the next few days, but I can't personally vouch for that.

© Nick Loven
Lydia's Cold-Brew Coffee Cake
Ingredients
Cake Batter
120g (5oz) butter
300g (1 1/3 cups) caster sugar
2 eggs
120ml (1/2 cup) coffee (see below)
240ml (1 cup) plain yogurt
300g (2 cups) plain flour
1 tsp salt
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda (baking soda)
1 tbsp white wine vinegar

Coffee
Cold-brew method: 300ml (1 1/4 cups) coffee grounds, 300ml water
or hot-brew-gone cold method: 240ml (1 cup) coffee grounds, 300ml off-the-boil water
or 240ml (1 cup) coffee made with espresso powder/wholebean instant coffee powder, I'd make double strength from what the manufacturer recommends as a starting point. 

Sugar Syrup
60ml (1/4 cup, 4 tbsp) caster sugar
60ml water

Salted Caramel Frosting
125g (scant 2/3 cup) caster sugar
60ml (1/4 cup, 4 tbsp) water
80ml double cream or cream substitute like Elmlea
1/2 tsp salt (or to taste)
1 tsp vanilla extract
250g (10oz, 2 1/2 sticks, 1 1/4 cup) unsalted butter - softened (if you haven't the time to let it soften at room temperature, you can cut it up into small cubes and whisk it with a hand held mixer, or beat it in a standing mixer until softened)
300g (1 1/2 cups) icing/confectioner's sugar

Method
To make the cold-brew coffee, mix the grounds and the water, let stand for 10 minutes and mix again. Cover and leave at room temperature for 12-24 hours (I had time for a 15 hour wait) then strain and pass through a muslin cloth/cheese cloth to strain out the silty muck.

If making hot-brew-gone-cold method, brew as normal and leave to cool.

For the sugar syrup, bring the sugar and water to the boil in a pan while stirring to dissolve. Leave to cool.

To make the drizzle for the cakes, combine 1/4 cup (60ml, 4 tbsp) of sugar syrup with 1/4 cup of the coffee (if making the weaker version of the cake, make the drizzle up as described here, but use only half of it).

Preheat the oven to 170ºC, (325ºF, gas mark 3, electric oven, 180ºC - 350ºF gas 4 for gas oven).
Line two 8 inch tins with paper (a butter/oil and flour coating doesn't work quite so well for this cake).
Whisk the butter and sugar until smooth.
Beat in the eggs. 

Add coffee and beat until smooth. It will be very runny at this stage.
Add half the flour and mix well before adding half the yogurt. 
Repeat with the remaining flour and yogurt.
Add the salt, bicarbonate of soda and vinegar, and beat well.
Divide whatever batter avoids death by immediate eating between the two prepared baking tins and bake for 45-55 minutes (now's a good time to make the frosting), until the centres spring back and a skewer comes out clean. It'll have a fizzing sound when baked if you listen closely.

Immediately skewer it all over and pour the syrup/coffee mixture over the cakes (1/4 cup, 4 tbsp, for each layer. If you're making the weaker version of the cake, use only 2 tbsp per layer).
Allow to cool in the pan for 10-15 minutes before turning out on a wire rack, upside down, to finish cooling. 


For the salted caramel frosting, dissolve the caster sugar in the water over a low heat, before turning the heat up and cooking for 2-3 minutes. The caramel will be bubbling, slightly golden in colour, and thickened. Slowly pour in the cream while stirring - be careful as it will splatter. Once mixed, remove from heat and stir in the vanilla extract and salt and allow to cool. Whisk the butter with the icing sugar until light and fluffy, then add the cooled caramel and blend until just combined. 


To assemble, sandwich the two cake layers together with frosting, and cover with a thin layer. Refrigerate for about an hour before adding a second, thicker layer of frosting. This 2-stage process gives a "crumb coating" and will help prevent stray cake crumbs from appearing on the outside of the cake. It's not strictly necessary, but it does look neater, especially with such a crumbly sponge. 

Enjoy chilled, with yet more coffee, either brewed the normal way, or using what remains of the cold-brewed coffee, diluted around 1:4 with cold water/ice/milk and a dash of sugar syrup to taste.

© Nick Loven

salted caramel coconut cake

© Lydia, punge.blogspot.co.uk


Following on from last week's warm spice cake with black pepper in the frosting, I really wanted to make a salt and pepper cake this week, admittedly because I think it sounds cool. I think it'll taste awesome too, think spicy gingerbread topped with salted caramel frosting. Mmmmm. I don't know why I didn't go for that in the end, perhaps because the weather in the UK is finally starting to look like the July it is and a gingerbread/caramel combination is a bit too wintry for right now. In any case I had salted caramel on my mind, and with the allotment bursting with strawberries, something was calling me to combine the two together. In my mind, the sponge could basically go one of two ways to support such a flavour combination without overpowering it, either a plain vanilla sponge (not really my style), or coconut. Coconut it is :)

So here it is, a somewhat cacophonous sounding combination of flavours - coconut cake topped with salted caramel buttercream and balsamic vinegar & pepper-glazed strawberries. The flavours combine exceedingly well, each subtly announcing its presence before bowing out to allow another flavour to come in and say "Hi!". I'm glad it happened, I think it's lovely, and will go very nicely with a good cup of Earl Grey. 


© Lydia, punge.blogspot.co.uk
Lydia's Salted Caramel Coconut Cake
Ingredients 
Cake batter
3 eggs
175g (0.8 cups) caster sugar
125g (1 scant cup) plain flour
190g (2 scant cups) shredded coconut
1 tsp vanilla extract

Frosting
125g (scant 2/3 cup) caster sugar

60ml (1/4 cup, 4 tbsp) water
80ml (1/3 cup) double cream or cream substitute like Elmlea
1/2 tsp salt (or to taste)
1 tsp vanilla extract
250g (10oz, 2 1/2 sticks, 1 1/4 cup) unsalted butter - softened (if you haven't the time to let it soften at room temperature, you can cut it up into small cubes and whisk it with a hand held mixer, or beat it in a standing mixer until softened)
300g (1 1/2 cups) icing/confectioner's sugar

Filling & Topping
150g (~1/2 cup) strawberry jam
7 medium strawberries, cut into chunks
2 tsp caster sugar
1/4 tsp balsamic vinegar
4-5 twists black pepper (freshly ground)


Method
Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C / Gas 4 - electric oven, slightly higher if using gas).
Line two 8 inch pans (for springform pans, a light brushing with vegetable/sunflower/canola oil and coating of flour will be fine, otherwise line with greaseproof paper).

Place eggs and sugar in a heatproof bowl and whisk over a simmering pan of water (make sure the water level is low enough that it doesn't touch the bottom of the bowl) until thick, creamy and the whisk leaves a trail when lifted out.

Remove from heat, add the vanilla extract and continue whisking for 2-3 more minutes. 

Gently fold in the flour and coconut with a metal spoon, being very careful not to over-blend - otherwise the cakes won't rise well and will turn out quite chewy. Don't worry too much if you do overdo it though, it'll still taste delicious, it'll just give your jaw more of a workout!

Divide the mixture between the two pans, levelling with the spoon. Bake for 15-20 minutes, until firm to the touch.

Cool in tins for 5 minutes, then transfer to wire racks (upside-down) to finish cooling.


© Lydia, punge.blogspot.co.uk
To make the buttercream, dissolve the caster sugar in the water over a low heat, before turning the heat up and cooking for 2-3 minutes. The caramel will be bubbling, slightly golden in colour, and thickened. 

Slowly pour in the cream while stirring - be careful as it will splatter. Once mixed, remove from heat and stir in the vanilla extract and salt. Allow to cool (you can pour the salted caramel sauce onto a plate and place in the fridge or freezer - this will take about 5-10 minutes to cool sufficiently).

Whisk the butter with the icing sugar until light and fluffy, then add the cooled caramel and blend until just combined. I find that if using a standing mixer, it's best to turn the mixer off and add the caramel to the buttercream in one go before continuing to blend, otherwise the caramel gets caught on the paddle and doesn't mix into the buttercream as quickly, which can result in a runny, over-beaten frosting.


© Lydia, punge.blogspot.co.uk


To assemble the cake, spread the jam over one layer of cake, top with a generous dollop of salted caramel buttercream and place the other layer on top. The sponge itself can be quite dry as it's meringue based, so it can afford a really generous filling! For the smoothest finish, cover the cake in a thin layer of buttercream and allow this to set in the fridge for ~30 minutes before covering the cake again in the remaining buttercream. This first layer acts as a "crumb coat" and prevents cake crumbs from "spoiling" the smooth appearance of the finished cake. This is mostly important if you've had to trim the cakes in any way, but if you're not bothered by a super-smooth finish, then you can bypass this step and coat the cake in one, thicker layer of buttercream. 

Combine the strawberries with the sugar, balsamic vinegar and pepper, and spoon over the top of the cake, drizzling with the rest of the balsamic glaze that clings to the bottom of the bowl. You can also sprinkle the top of the cake with some more sea salt to add a pleasantly salty crunch. 



Tuck in!

© Lydia, punge.blogspot.co.uk